When, finally, in the 19th century, cheese was welcome at the high-class table, it was served at the same times as entremets (dishes served between two courses). It was not until the following century that cheese would be considered a particular course, to be served after the main course, between the salad and the dessert. But although cheese was getting more attention, it still wasn’t necessarily considered classy. Cheese was long ignored in upper-class meals, even in the fairly recent past. For example, In Charles De Gaulle’s day, presidential menus often did not even mention cheeses, even though they were served.
Today, cheese has achieved new status. It’s now classy to offer guests fresh soft or refined cheeses. Cheese platters are now carefully studied, even codified to satisfy the most demanding palate. Some hosts may serve just one cheese, instead of a selection of cheeses, but in this case, the one cheese must be sublime; it must be an “ultimate” cheese, a cheese to remember! Some bring old practices back to life, offering jams, pâtes de fruits (jellied fruit patties) , or candied fruits to go with the cheese.

© Text : Antoine Soulié « 250 réponses aux questions sur les arts et plaisirs de la table ». Picture homepage Internet.